Workshop Index    
  1. Camera settings
  5. Jpeg work flow
  6. RAW flow
  7. File details
  8. Storage
  9. Computer set up and basic work flow
  10. Image selection
  11. Transferring images between folders
  12. RAW processing
  13. Sharpening
  14. Shadow/highlight tool
  15. Correcting under-exposed images
  16. Overexposed images
  17. Reducing digital noise
  18. Correcting sloping horizons
  19. Mono conversions
  20. Layers
  21. False snow
  22. Producing a pencil sketch
  23. Using a layer to burn and dodge
  24. Curves
  25. Altering contrast using curves
  26. Altering part of the curve
  27. Pysadelic curves
  28. Curves and monochrome
  29. IR conversions
  30. HDR (High Dynamic Range) processing
  31. Highlight & Shadow in Photomatix
  32. Book list
  33. Return to home page
  

JPEG WORK FLOW

If you can don't even check the image in camera when using Jpegs, This format is a loss one.

The camera or computer discards information to compress the image into a small file size; each time you open and close a Jpeg on a rewrite disk you loose a little data. If you modify the file you loose even more data.

At the end of the shoot copy the files from the camera onto a CD. You now have reference disk of files that cannot loose data. The files on this CD can now be transferred to a dedicated folder on your main hard drive and saved as 8 bit 300 ppi Tiff files. Use a batch conversion programme; I prefer the one to be found in Irfanview, an excellent free programme. www.irfanview.com for a free download.

Do not open any files in your computer until you've got to this stage.

I would now burn another disk with these unaltered Tiff files on. You can now open these files on your main drive and modify them safe in the knowledge that you have two un-alterable original copies of the image files in case you inadvertently loose one in PS; and we've all done that.

As Tiff is lossless you can now work on the files without loosing any data.